mardi 13 décembre 2011

Nigeria, my new family, where I became the wife of the whole population, "Iyawo" in Yoruba!

I loved Nigeria. The trip confirmed my expectations, my impressions brought by the various Nigerian met in the past. More modern, civilized and respectful than Ghana, with a proud culture , free to absorb foreign influences while keeping the traditional family and social rules - they bows respectfully and with pride to an older person -  a delicious language, a resplendent, flavoured and spicy cuisine, daily fabulous fashion for both men and women ( the men wear beautiful Ankara almost everyday), magnificent fabrics, a society organized,  strict, self-respecting and advancing at the despite the various corruptions, political battles which involve any family, which we can hear in all living rooms .. All get involved .. A society and culture that reminds me of France, with the taste, tradition, innovation, criticism, political commitment...
But who is physically located in Africa, with a federal structure in which the three main tribes Yoruba, Igbo and Haussa are not recognising themselves...

A road network almost to the level of Ireland, twice more developed than Ghana who, in comparison, seems like a country just coming out from the bushes. Yes Lagos feels crazy with the tangle of trucks, cars, buses and the zigzag suicidal dance of the motorcycles along with their passengers. But it is a capital city (formerly political, today economic) with a traffic no greater than in Paris. What is dangerous is the lack of sidewalks and the risk of being hit by a bus while walking in the aisles. A capital with a high cost of living. Without a stable power grid. What a shame that this country so rich in human and physical resources, is hampered by rampant corruption that infects all levels. An electrical network that is resistant to development because so many people benefit from a significant gain in diesel consumption used for power generators switched on during almost 100% of a typical day of work by a bank, a hospital, an industry... So Nigeria, in economic competition with Ghana which first prioritized their electrical network over the road network, sees some industries leaving Lagos to settle in Accra, despite more attractive Nigerian human resources both in production and consumption. But how to produce without regular electricity? For how long can this keep going?

Nigeria, at the crossroads of three african cultures from North Africa (Haussa), the west (Yoruba) and southeast (Igbo), is one of those countries victims of the old colonial borders, which brought together such different tribes under one nation. A federal power away from these ancient cultures without knowing how to integrate the powers and faculties of each of them ends up compromising itself by taking advantage of the wealth of each state and ignore or silent rebellions of exploited communities, as long as he can fill up his pockets. It is then to the goodwill and integrity of the Governors of each state that the development is done. As a result, the population follows and intervenes more in the politics of their states, giving more respect to a local authority that just yet maintains links with the traditional powers of chiefs and kings still in place. A nation where the president should keep only a role in foreign affairs and give the responsibility of the internal affairs to each State, where corruption would be more difficult to hide and the authorities more respected as closer to the population.
But the Nigerian negative and pessimistic (like the French for that matter), who saw previous tries for improvement shot in the back, do not believe anymore in a possible change for their country and excuse the failures and delays to a corruption now assigned to the natural character of their fellow citizens. So they leave, emigrate...

This country is fascinating of contradictions, clashing cultures, traditions facing a modernity, wild beauties ... Unfortunately, each day we bought the newspaper, the cover reported a statement by a rebel group from the North or the South threatening to kidnap foreigners!
So Bolaji and his family, despite my resistance, had me half “contained"... Overprotected against heat and the supposed external dangers, and despite my little escapades quickly stopped and from which Bolaji earned accusations from his parents and siblings, my body needed air. Sitting all day inside, my stomach and my head complained. After convincing Bolaji, we went for a day out to see and feel. I have to say ddddooooo, they were right oooooo...Each outing brought to us interesting adventures with threatening and cheating motorists, stupid power-greedy policeman and the back of a Lagos bus damaging my eye after 5 days closed in and within the first 10 minutes walk in the city. Result, we both came back with an ulcer, him for his worries and me by the lack of air and exercise. We needed 5 days to recover!
Otherwise the Kuti family is great, free and warm. Bolaji took me to the only touristic site around Ondo, a village built in the middle of massive granit rock hills where you can walk up and find the old abandoned village with a palace built a thousand years ago where kings of different eras came to make sacrifices for the gods. Made in mud with very interesting wood statues. amazing day trip because you do not expect anything there,  there are no touristic programs and most locals don't know about it. It's only one hour drive from where Bolaji grew up! In Ondo State which is itself two hours from Lagos and is very rich in resources, is very green, has oil, bitumen, the first production of cocoa in the country, as well as cashew nuts.

I hope we will return soon, perhaps for developing eco-tourism?! I can’t wait oooooooo

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