Nigeria, my new family, where I became the wife of the whole population, "Iyawo" in Yoruba!

I loved Nigeria. The trip confirmed my expectations, my impressions brought by the various Nigerian met in the past. More modern, civilized and respectful than Ghana, with a proud culture , free to absorb foreign influences while keeping the traditional family and social rules - they bows respectfully and with pride to an older person -  a delicious language, a resplendent, flavoured and spicy cuisine, daily fabulous fashion for both men and women ( the men wear beautiful Ankara almost everyday), magnificent fabrics, a society organized,  strict, self-respecting and advancing at the despite the various corruptions, political battles which involve any family, which we can hear in all living rooms .. All get involved .. A society and culture that reminds me of France, with the taste, tradition, innovation, criticism, political commitment...

But who is physically located in Africa, with a federal structure in which the three main tribes Yoruba, Igbo and Haussa are not recognising themselves...

A road network almost to the level of Ireland, twice more developed than Ghana who, in comparison, seems like a country just coming out from the bushes. Yes Lagos feels crazy with the tangle of trucks, cars, buses and the zigzag suicidal dance of the motorcycles along with their passengers. But it is a capital city (formerly political, today economic) with a traffic no greater than in Paris. What is dangerous is the lack of sidewalks and the risk of being hit by a bus while walking in the aisles. A capital with a high cost of living. Without a stable power grid. What a shame that this country so rich in human and physical resources, is hampered by rampant corruption that infects all levels. An electrical network that is resistant to development because so many people benefit from a significant gain in diesel consumption used for power generators switched on during almost 100% of a typical day of work by a bank, a hospital, an industry... So Nigeria, in economic competition with Ghana which first prioritized their electrical network over the road network, sees some industries leaving Lagos to settle in Accra, despite more attractive Nigerian human resources both in production and consumption. But how to produce without regular electricity? For how long can this keep going?

Nigeria, at the crossroads of three african cultures from North Africa (Haussa), the west (Yoruba) and southeast (Igbo), is one of those countries victims of the old colonial borders, which brought together such different tribes under one nation. A federal power away from these ancient cultures without knowing how to integrate the powers and faculties of each of them ends up compromising itself by taking advantage of the wealth of each state and ignore or silent rebellions of exploited communities, as long as he can fill up his pockets. It is then to the goodwill and integrity of the Governors of each state that the development is done. As a result, the population follows and intervenes more in the politics of their states, giving more respect to a local authority that just yet maintains links with the traditional powers of chiefs and kings still in place. A nation where the president should keep only a role in foreign affairs and give the responsibility of the internal affairs to each State, where corruption would be more difficult to hide and the authorities more respected as closer to the population.
But the Nigerian negative and pessimistic (like the French for that matter), who saw previous tries for improvement shot in the back, do not believe anymore in a possible change for their country and excuse the failures and delays to a corruption now assigned to the natural character of their fellow citizens. So they leave, emigrate...

This country is fascinating of contradictions, clashing cultures, traditions facing a modernity, wild beauties ... Unfortunately, each day we bought the newspaper, the cover reported a statement by a rebel group from the North or the South threatening to kidnap foreigners!

So Bolaji and his family, despite my resistance, had me half “contained"... Overprotected against heat and the supposed external dangers, and despite my little escapades quickly stopped and from which Bolaji earned accusations from his parents and siblings, my body needed air. Sitting all day inside, my stomach and my head complained. After convincing Bolaji, we went for a day out to see and feel. I have to say ddddooooo, they were right oooooo...Each outing brought to us interesting adventures with threatening and cheating motorists, stupid power-greedy policeman and the back of a Lagos bus damaging my eye after 5 days closed in and within the first 10 minutes walk in the city. Result, we both came back with an ulcer, him for his worries and me by the lack of air and exercise. We needed 5 days to recover!

Otherwise the Kuti family is great, free and warm. Bolaji took me to the only touristic site around Ondo, a village built in the middle of massive granit rock hills where you can walk up and find the old abandoned village with a palace built a thousand years ago where kings of different eras came to make sacrifices for the gods. Made in mud with very interesting wood statues. amazing day trip because you do not expect anything there,  there are no touristic programs and most locals don't know about it. It's only one hour drive from where Bolaji grew up! In Ondo State which is itself two hours from Lagos and is very rich in resources, is very green, has oil, bitumen, the first production of cocoa in the country, as well as cashew nuts.

I hope we will return soon, perhaps for developing eco-tourism?! I can’t wait oooooooo

Le Nigeria, ma nouvelle famille, la ou je suis devenue la femme de toute une population, "Iyawo" en Yoruba!

J'ai adore le Nigeria. Cela a confirme mes attentes, mes impressions données par les divers nigérians rencontres avant. Plus moderne, civilise et respectueux que le Ghana, avec une culture fière qui ne se ridiculise pas, libre d'absorber des influences étrangères tout en gardant les fondamentaux traditionnels familiaux et sociaux - on se prosterne respectueusement devant une personne plus âgée -, une langue délicieuse, une cuisine resplendissante et pleine de goût, une mode fabuleuse et quotidienne tant pour les hommes que les femmes, des tissus magnifiques, une société organisée et stricte qui se respecte et qui avance au gré des diverses corruptions, des batailles politiques qui impliquent toute famille, dont l'on entend parler dans tous les salons.. Tous sont impliques.. Une société et culture qui me rappelle la France, avec du goût, des traditions, de l'innovation, des critiques, de l'engagement politique...

Mais qui se trouve physiquement en Afrique, avec encore une mentalité africaine et une structure et administration fédérale dans laquelle ne se retrouve pas les sociétés Yoruba, Haussa et Igbo...

Un réseau routier presque au niveau de l'Irlande, deux fois plus développé que le Ghana qui en comparaison est une société qui sort juste des buissons. Oui Lagos semble fou dans un entremêlement de camions, voitures, bus et la danse en zigzag des motos. Mais c'est une capitale (anciennement politique, aujourd'hui seulement économique du Nigeria) moderne avec des bouchons pas plus importants qu'a Paris. Ce qui est dangereux c'est l'absence de trottoirs et le risque de se faire happer par un bus en marchant sur les bas-cotes. C'est une capitale a la vie chère. Sans réseau électrique stable. Quel dommage que cette société si riche en ressources humaines et physiques, soit handicapée par une corruption rampante qui contamine tous les niveaux. Un réseau électrique qui résiste au développement car tant de personnes profitent d'un gain important dans la consommation faramineuse de diesel utilisé pour alimenter les générateurs allumés presque a 100% dans une journée type de travail par une banque, un hôpital, une entreprise... Alors le Nigeria, en concurrence économique avec le Ghana qui a d'abord privilégié leur réseau électrique devant le réseau routier, voit certaines industries quitter Lagos pour s'installer a Accra, malgré des ressources humaines tant en production que consommation plus intéressantes au Nigeria. Mais comment produire sans électricité stable? Pour combien de temps encore?

Le Nigeria, carrefour de trois cultures africaines venant du Nord, de l'Ouest et de Sud-Est, est un de ces pays victimes de ces anciennes frontieres coloniales, qui a reuni des tribus si differentes sous une meme nation, un pouvoir federal qui loin de ces cultures ancestrales et sans savoir intégrer les pouvoirs et facultés de chacune d'entre elles, se compromet en profitant des richesses de chaque état et taisant les rebellions des communautés exploitées, s'enrichit les poches. C'est au bon vouloir et a l’intégrité des gouverneurs de chaque état que le développement se fait. De ce fait, la population suit et intervient plus dans la politique de leurs gouverneurs, respectant plus une politique locale qui justement entretient encore des liens avec les pouvoirs traditionnels des chefs et rois toujours en place. Une nation ou le president devrait garder seulement un rôle dans les affaires etrangeres et donner la responsabilite des affaires interieures a chaque etat, ou la corruption serait plus difficile a cacher et les pouvoirs plus respectes, car plus proches de la population.

Mais les nigérians, négatifs et pessimistes, (comme les français d'ailleurs), qui ont vu des essais de changement sans cesse fusillés, ne croient plus a un changement possible dans leurs pays et excuse les échecs et lenteurs a une corruption maintenant attribuée au caractère naturel de leurs concitoyens. Alors ils partent, s'expatrient...

Ce pays est passionnant de contradictions, de cultures qui s'entrechoquent, de traditions qui font face a une modernité, de beautés sauvages... Mais chaque jour, quand on achetait le journal, la une rapportait une déclaration d'un des groupes rebelles du Nord ou du Sud menaçant d’enlèvement d’étrangers! Alors Bolaji et sa famille, malgré ma résistance, m'ont a moitie "cloisonnée".. Surprotégée contre la chaleur et les supposés dangers extérieurs, et malgré mes petites escapades rapidement stoppées et qui ont valu a Bolaji des engueulades de ses parents et frères et sœurs, mon corps avait besoin d'air, assise toute la journée a l’intérieur, mon estomac et ma tête se plaignaient. Alors a force de convaincre Bolaji, on sortait pour la journée, pour découvrir et ressentir. Chaque sortie nous a valu des aventures intéressantes avec des motoristes menaçants et entubeurs et des policiers avides de pouvoir, un arrière de bus lagotien qui m'a abîmé l’œil après 5 jours a l’intérieur et 10 minutes de marche. Résultat, nous avons tous les deux fait un ulcère, lui d’inquiétudes et moi par manque d'air et d'exercice. Nous avons eu besoin de 5 jours a Accra pour récupérer de maux d'estomac!

Sinon sa famille est géniale, libre et chaleureuse. L’état d'Ondo, deux heures a l'est de Lagos, ou il est né et a grandi est riche, vert et magnifique en paysages sauvages.

J’espère qu'on y reviendra bientôt, peut-être pour y développer un tourisme vert??!!

C'est la saison des mangos!

Nous nous endormons au son des mangos qui tombent et roulent sur notre toit en tôle et nous nous réveillons avec la douceur des mangos fraîches sur les lèvres, la langue et le palais... Magique! Un des derniers souvenirs a Accra...

Six mois au Ghana - Tro-tro

Je voudrais remercier tous ceux qui ont laissé un commentaire et comme remerciement, je voulais aujourd'hui laisser un message en Français, car la plupart des commentaires sont laissés par ceux en France, car je postule cette semaine pour un boulot a l'Ambassade de France et comme me l'a conseillé Perrine, je dois me remettre au Français..

Début d'une série de coups de cœur, comme bilan de 6mois au Ghana.

Le Ghana, un an, des découvertes, sûrement des déceptions, des surprises, du bonheur, des bruits et des odeurs.

Après six mois, cela ressemble fortement a mon imagination, malgré et heureusement des mauvaises surprises, des chocs culturels, des frustrations.

Un pays qui se modernise, qui se démocratise mais qui s'excuse encore de son retard par son appartenance au continent Africain. 

Beaucoup de ressources, beaucoup de capacités mais malheureusement beaucoup d'excuses, beaucoup de lenteur, de corruption dues au croyances africaines d’être encore inférieures et dépendantes du monde extérieur. 

Et surtout qui essaye d'imiter l'Ouest au lieu de créer leur propre société, leur propre système adapté a un environnement difficile et si différent. Donc une société qui coure vers la modernité en contournant les montagnes de déchets, en sautant par dessus les fossés, les rivières d'eau noire et sale. Oubliant de rénover les bases avant de grimper, le pays est souvent rattrape par les difficultés inhérentes a ces mauvaises gestions et oublis. 

Et l'expression est dans toutes les bouches "welcome to africa!!" comme excuse, une raison de leur retard.

Mes coups de cœur: 

les tro-tros qui en plus d’être faciles, pas chers a utiliser et rapides pour circuler sont aussi un bon moyen de se faire respecter et de rencontrer la population locale.. 

Surtout quand on arrive a se battre pour gagner un siège dans le bus, lors des rush-hours du matin et soir.. Une vingtaine et trentaine de personnes attendent pour le même tro-tro, quelquefois avec une a deux heures d'attente pour les plus faibles et peureux.. Ou simplement pour ceux qui ne veulent par arriver au travail avec des vêtements déchirés ou des bleus ou coupures au visage.. 

Dur, dur de se déplacer a Accra. Ça permet de relativiser les retards de 10minutes que l'on peut avoir en Europe, les pannes de tramway ou de métro.. Certaines travailleurs doivent se lever vers 3h du matin pour pouvoir être sur la route avant 5h et arriver au boulot vers les 8h. Ils repartent le soir vers 17/18h pour arriver quelques heures plus tard chez eux. Certains choisissent même de rester en ville jusqu’à tard pour éviter les bouchons..

Donc quand on sort quelque part pour une petite course, pour aller au marché, vérifier la boite postale, faire une demande de visa, il faut ajouter au moins deux heures de transport au temps nécessaire. Ou alors planifier une journée pour tout faire et s'attendre a revenir odorant, noir de poussière avec probablement le dos en compote.

Un conducteur et un "mate" sont présents sur chaque tro-tro. Je les compare souvent avec le cerveau et le cœur. Le conducteur prend toutes les décisions et n'a pratiquement pas de relations avec les usagers. Le "mate" qui est en général plus jeune et malheureusement presque enfant de temps en temps, est celui qui en plus de récolter les sous, gère les humeurs des passagers, aide les enfants et personnes âgées a descendre et monter dans le bus, en résumant, prend soin des personnes a bord.

De toute taille, peints de toute couleur, en musique. Certains sont en ruines, sans suspension, avec des sièges en cuir qui collent aux vêtements en cas de grande chaleur. D'autres sont plutôt confortables. Question de choix si on a le temps. 

Quelques petites anecdotes: 

• on a une fois transporté un poulet entre le marché local Kaneshie et l'hostel a vingt minutes en tro-tro. Le poulet était vivant, mis dans un sac avec la tête qui sortait par un trou sur le cote et je portais le sac comme si je tenais le poulet par une laisse.. Calme au début, les pattes attachées, il s'est mis a paniquer pendant le voyage, a se trémousser, a caqueter.. Bien entendu, tous les locaux me regardaient, se demandant si j'allais le lâcher, mais malgré ma propre panique j'ai tenu bon et nous avons pu le ramener par les pattes, la tête en bas... Et il était bien bon..voir dans un prochain message... et sur mon album picasa, voir message précédent pour le lien..
• De retour du centre-ville, nous embarquons avec deux amies de l'hostel dans un tro-tro depuis Tema Station vers Kaneshie avant de rentrer sur Darkuman. Étant trois, nous nous installons sur les sièges du fond et attendant que le tro-tro soit plein avant de partir. Il reste deux places sur la banquette arrière..Soudain nous voyons s'approcher dans la rangée du milieu, deux femmes avec le devant et le derrière très développés..Nous nous regardons et instinctivement nous serrons sur les côtés de la banquette. Banquette qui est bordée par une fenêtre bien basse et tandis que les deux femmes bien développées s’assoient, mon propre derrière déborder largement du bus. Les femmes sont bien installées et ne montrent pas le moindre effort pour se serrer les fesses. Mais après quelques commentaires et klaxons de l’extérieur, alors que nous sommes presque arrivées a destination, le fameux "mate" demande de se serrer et surprise, il y a assez de place pour tous nos derrières.

Voila le tro-tro, mon moyen de transport quotidien, mais qui sont largement trop nombreux sur Accra, ne gagnent probablement pas de quoi vivre, inondent les routes, créent les bouchons qu'ils essayent de contourner en recréant un bouchon.. En bref, une plaie si le système reste désorganisé et dérégulé. Mais il semble que la mairie d'Accra reste insensible aux sujets d'environnement, de population et de transport. Ils reçoivent les taxes et c'est le plus important. Les stations de tro-tro comme celle de Circle dans un des messages précédents, sont des mini-slums aux carrefours de la ville et sont les endroits les plus pollués de la ville..Et rien n'est fait pour changer cela, car comme je l'ai dit au début de ce message, c'est l'Afrique, et malheureusement la plupart des projets de développement sont focalises sur le rural ou le Nord du Ghana. La situation d'Accra est laissée a l'abandon..

Prochain numéro, prochain coup de cœur sur l'alimentaire, la nourriture, les marches, des recettes, les chop-bar, etc... manger quoi!!

A la prochaine...

Ghana

Voila le lien de mon album photo sur Picasa, qui sera regulierement mis a jour..

Les vagues sont bonnes!

 Dedicace pour Rija: les vagues sont bonnes a surfer!!!!Et il existe un club de surf quelque part sur la cote Ghaneenne, a explorer pour la suite!

As long as we believe in something...

Last week was the end of the Ramadan, the Eid celebration for all the Ghanaian Muslims. It stroked me to know that the day was decided to be a national bank holiday. Of course it doesn’t mean that all the shops were closed, that the country stopped working for the celebration but it felt the same way as a Good Friday or Easter Monday. Only half of the tro-tros were on the road, most offices were closed and we could spot the Muslims in our regular little shops. Who was working or not? The fruit lady next door, the red-red lady at the corner of the street… It was probably easier for us in Darkuman since it is the biggest Muslim community in Accra. So true that we were told about the venue of all Muslims from all corners of the capital to celebrate the end of the Ramadan.

But before describing the street celebrating, my reflection started by noticing that most countries in Europe call themselves multi-religion, tolerant for all beliefs, congratulate themselves for respecting and placing all religions on an equal foot. In France and Spain, the second biggest religion is Islam. But how many of those so called tolerant countries have Eid as a bank holiday. And on the other way around, how many Christian days are actual bank holidays. Let’s try to count them in France: Christmas, Easter, Ascension, Saint Mary, All Saints. Correct me if I’m wrong or if I have forgotten some. This gives us 5 Christian Bank holidays against zero Muslim bank holidays. Does that mean that all Muslims residing in France have to take a normal holiday in order to attend the prayer at the mosque and the festivities in their own communities? Are we really on an equal foot?

Ghana is the country where for the first time I felt that the two monotheist religions were just two neighbours with different interests, who live their lives differently because of their own interpretation of the environment but who understand and respect each other because they live under the same sky and sun whose light shines over both houses and lives. So when one of them is celebrating its belief and lifestyle, the other one comes to pay respectto his neighbour. That’s what it feels like here in Ghana, and it is one of the most fervent populations I have experienced. Everything relates to God or Allah. Their personal lives, their work, their transport… All shops, cars and tro-tros mention god in their name: “God first motor shop”, “God is able”, “Only god makes fast food”, “Praise the lord”, “God is good”, “Allah is great”…

On Sundays and most of the days, you can hear churches singing and prayers coming from all directions. In Ghana there are probably hundreds of different denominations, with the classical and traditional Protestants, Catholics, Anglicans and Methodists neighbouring the new and popular charismatic churches: Winners Chapel, The Lighthouse Chapel International…

In tro-tros, anytime of the week and day, nicely dressed men stand in middle of the seats and preach the lord’s word. Sacred landmarks and crossroads of the city have their own two or three preachers, men and women, shouting, praying, and singing in a microphone, for the whole day. I always wonder about the extent of their imagination and their knowledge of the bible. They go from one chapter to another, quote the sacred words and interpret it by relating it to the reality of Ghana, the daily life of Ghanaians. The tro-tros are not only used by Christians and when we are taking them to Darkuman, they are probably more filled by Muslims than Christians, but everybody are listening the preacher with respect or at least ignore with respect. And I have to say that I have experienced some hard times supporting it, when the man is shouting in your ears an unknown language. Sometimes I wonder if the Muslims say amen to the prayers of the preacher. They probably do, as much as some Christians use Allah to greet their Muslim neighbours.

It’s almost like they are aware their gods are the same, they are just giving him a different name.

On Eid day celebrating the end of the fasting, the end of Ramadan, everybody was on the street, partying, dancing, showing off. The Christians were here to accompany their neighbours and friends in their beliefs, greeting them by "Barka Da Sallah" like in Nigeria.

Apart from the two Eid celebrations, the Muslims are very private in the practice of their religion. They is no questions, no judgment, no try of converting a non-believer. Of course, we can hear the mosque calling its followers few times a day, but it is called in Arabic, the original language for Islam, which could only be understood or spoken by Muslims here in Ghana.

Here and in Nigeria all beliefs are equals and the most important is that we believe in something. If we say to locals that we don’t believe there is a god, they’ll only be relieved until we explain that we believe in something else, in anything as long as we believe…

This question also brings us to the notion of development which, defined by the North, qualifies countries as developed or underdeveloped, depending on their wealth and their access to new technologies. I personally think that this tolerance of religious beliefs shows a very strong development of a culture or civilisation.

We are all at different stages of development in our own beliefs and behaviours. The measurer of development is not global but personal and private. No one is more developed than an other. We alone are judge of our own development, depending on our own expectations. 

The issue of this “developed” and “underdeveloped” countries is pretty much the cause of the poverty, corruption and conflict in the global south, or at least in Africa. Because all those countries are trying to catch up with the northern so-called development, while forgetting, rejecting and isolating their own cultures. Instead of trying to build a new alternative development, integrating their communities and environments. 

Such as having two religion cohabiting peacefully and respectfully, on an equal foot, which is almost unique in the world.

Circle Trotro Station

Kwame Nkrumah Circle - TroTro Station - Main Accra's landmark - You can get a 

 trotro from anywhere to Circle, just have to concentrate on "cir,cir,cir..." and look at the hands or the fingers turning on themselves!! The horizon of roofs there is the hundreds of little shops on the side of the station where you can find anything at anytime of the day, made my passport photos there for my residency permit, from a little boy who had an old digital camera, an old computer with Microsoft Publisher..Believe it or not, the photos were ready in 2minutes (like a photomaton) and looked very professional! 

But sadly these hundreds shops make a little slum next to the station (typical environment around trotro station). The shops never close, the sellers are there, sleeping in their tiny stalls, in the middle of the rubbish accumulated for days and months before being thrown in the river, couple of meters away, which will then fill the Atlantic Ocean with thousands of plastic bags which you see in the waves of the beach, couple of kilometers from Accra, Kokrobite, see next message...

First images!!!!!

 World Malaria Day 2011 organised by African Media and Malaria Research Network (AMMREN) in the community of Ahwiam, East-Accra

My first photos here in Ghana...On the 21st of April, AMMREN organised the World Malaria Day where 1000 mosquito nets were distributed&hanged in Ahwiam by a group of dedicated local volunteers...

This big tree standing in the middle of the square was extraordinary and to see people sitting down under it made me think of the legendary old image of people's councils meeting at the foot of a tree. 

Soon, when the internet connection allows me, more images of the countryside, Accra and the local beach...

A promised recipe of Nigerian or Ghanaian cuisine...

And words, emotions, impressions, opinions about life here...

Back soon

Hello!!!!
I know it has been quite a long time since last time I gave any news and I know how you must all be waiting for my words describing life in Ghana... This will come soon.. Just be sure that everything is fine in Accra, I am not alone anymore, Bolaji joined me almost 2weeks ago already!!!! We are settling down slowly, both of us getting used to the heat, even though the rainy season already started so temperatures cooled down in last few days...
We will stay in the hostel indicated on the map for the next six months, giving up on the agents who try to rip you off anyway they can especially when you're foreigner (and not only white!!!)
We havent got yet a postal address because you cant receive any post at your physical address here, you have to open a post box in a post office and unfortunately there is none available at the moment.. so you can write us emails, ring if not too expensive, use skype (mapi) or again comment on the blog when I'll leave more news on it...
After many requests, I just wanted to change the design and colour of the blog, add a map of Accra so you can see our whereabouts and a recipe of our many meals will be put on soon, with photos to witness..
For the photos of life here, I havent really taken my camera for a round yet, not yet comfortable to take pictures of the surroundings when many people are always in the views..
talk to you soon\
Mapi

Darkuman, Jamestown and Kaneshie Market

Finally I made it, after 6months of words, dreams, fears, doubts and preparation, I am in Ghana.
I landed in Accra on Friday evening hitted by the heat that intrude your clothes, invade your skin which starts sweating after one second outside. It's 30 degree celsius and it's 8pm.
I will try to resume my three first days in Accra, three days of slow discovery. The hostel where I am staying is pretty cosy, relaxed and warm so it's a nice start to feel yourself at home in here. Easy to stay there all day, and letting yourself fall into the comfort. Once you pass the gate, it's like you're in a transit world. Many foreigners are staying there, tourist, volunteers in various organisations... The sounds and smells from the street don't pass the gate, even the heat is stopped by the breeze going through the compound.. There is a nice seating area where you can stay there for hours without even sweating.. So thinking of going out in the unknown, in the heat, in the loud, messy and smelly street was kind of a scary feeling first..
But I made it.. First day, I only went to the main road near the hostel, looking for 20min for an old woman who sells fruits on one of the corner. That was part of my dream arriving in Accra : having a fruit salad on my first morning. Mangos, bananas, oranges... Souvenir of the Comores and Peru. Unfortunately, I only found her the next day. But managed to buy enough ingredients to make my first jollof rice which I made enough for my first 2days, until I got to the main market around here. The women here were really surprised and were laughing at me for trying to make local dishes. They didnt believe I would be able to make it. After this first try outside and the long preparation for the rice, I decided to take it easy and not go further on that day.
But the district around the hostel is nice, the street full of cars beeping, drivers shouting, hundreds of little shops along the way, selling all sorts of things, a mix of colours, of smells, a mix, a mess, disorganised, crazy, spontaneous but organised in their own ways, can't wait to go further into it..

Second day, I had to go further and deeper into Accra. Despite the offer and the possibility of going with others, I wanted to go on my own, find my way alone, take my time and see.. Jamestown was my target. Described in the guide as one of the oldest part of Accra, situated by the sea with a lighthouse and a fish market.
It was sunday and took off at around 10.30am. Ghana is a very christian country. Most shops, businesses are named after god, "God's gift motors", "God bless motors"... So at 10.30am on a Sunday, most people in the street are well dressed, on their way to church. Beautiful dresses full of colours for both men and women. Got in the tro-tro, the cheapest way of travelling in cities here, mini buses that transport you anywhere for only 50cent of a cedi (ghanaian currency). After one tro-tro, one taxi and 1/2h of walk, a few meetings on the road, I finally arrived at the lighthouse of Jamestown, where I found this little organisation run by a couple from the area, that helps street kids to go to school. Through resources made with the bit of beach they cleaned, a bar and couples of drumming and dancing lessons, added by some funds donated by few people met by chance, they can feed, host and clothes almost 50kids. Spent a few hours there, discussed with the organiser, learnt a few drumming rythms, went on a motorcycle ride through Jamestown streets...Nice experience for a first day outside the near neighbourhood. It's a start and it's encouraging for more tries. And it's also saying about the opportunity of meeting other various organisations around the city.

After eating Jollof rice for all meals during 2days, it was time to go to the market and get some other ingredients to make more and delicious dishes. I am sticking to my principle of only buying local and eat local and more important cook myself. It's easier, cheaper, more exciting and more delicious.. And i just  love to see the face of the women when I am frying plantains or manipulating the hot peppers.. So the third day, I went to Kaneshie Market with the niece of the hostel's owner, Eunice, who guided me through the different sellers, the different tiny lanes, between the hundreds of okra stands, the dozens of smoked fish, peppers, tomatoes, onions... mainly women who are asking my name, giving me another ghanaian name depending on the day I was born (Adjoua, Efia...), laughing again at me buying huge snails, crabs and others.. After one hour going through the market, 2big bags of food, I am ready for the week: okra, vegetable leaves, snails, crab, cow leg, chicken, spices, tomatoes, onions, melon seeds (egusi).. back to the house where Eunice will advise me on how to cook all those.. Result: okra soup with snails, crabs and meat which can be eaten with fufu, banku or boiled yam.. and egusi vegetable soup with meat which I am going to eat with rice.. hopefully it will last me until wednesday..

For the next few days, dont have to worry about food and meals, can finally concentrate on my research for organisations.. Tomorrow is another day..

Ciao

On the road again...

After Mapi in the North, come and discover the new adventures of Mapi in the south... Will she melt under the powerful heat of West Africa???
At least the humidity from Ireland will be respected, 2seasons of rain, almost half of the year under heavy rain...She's not going to be disturbed by this change... She won't miss the nice and humid drops on her skin... Even better, those drops, probably warmer than the frozen irish one, will be accompanied by a hot wind... Nothing to complain about..natural hot showers..
Anyway, ignore this brief and stupid dissertation about rain, I'm now on my way to Accra, seating in the wonderful Amsterdam Schipol Airport (I love that place, maybe I should actually stop my travels there), where anyone should consider to transit through one day. They have a beautiful lounge with cosy, bouncy chairs and couches, by fake fireplaces, a piano where anyone can relax his fingers, a free and public library, a forest for kids, a massage zone... Not to miss.

On the way to Accra, no time difference with Ireland by the way..
I will be landing tonight, Friday 18th of March and will be picked up by a man in a white shirt over black/blue trousers (if i'm gone missing, you'll know where to look for first ;-))), someone from the hostel where I'll be staying for first few days, before finding our own accommodation.

In the next few days, I will take my time to discover the city, walk around, find my way through the transport, get used to the heat and heavy humidity, find the markets, relax in the garden of the hostel, cook some delicious food with cassava, yam, okra, taste the probable delicious mangos and avocados, meet all the organisations which work for the women's rights or sustainable development.
Plenty of time, of new experiences, new sounds, smells, tastes..

What else can I ask from this life???? Can't wait..

Talk to you soon enough with real emotions, impressions and feelings about the place
Ciao

Sur la route des vents humides et chauds...

Apres le Nord, l'Irlande, ses pluies diverses et variees, ses collines vertes et brumeuses, ses cotes sableuses, filandreuses et epineuses, ses legendes, contes et mythes celtiques, vikings et autres, ses bieres brumeuses, ses pubs sombres et plein d'odeurs de vie, de sons chauds, de rires, de coups de gueules ou de poings, de casse, ses nombreuses communautes, son grand sens de l'accueil...
et puis ses docteurs qui consultent les symptomes sur wikipedia avant de finalement prescrire du 7up, l'absence de gynecos, de bon kines, dentistes..tout ca a des couts faramineux de 55euros la consult, sans assurance sociale, une culture riche qui se vend, qui se perd au profit de l'argent qui lui meme a ete jete par les fenetres pendant ces annees dites de croissance economique basee sur du vent venu d'Amerique (multinationales maintenant delocalisees, la main d'oeuvre irlandaise etant trop chere)

Merci Cork, si cette ville pouvait se trouver dans le sud, dans des climats plus confortables, dans une societe plus organisee et respectueuse des droits et services fondamentaux de l'homme, j'y vivrai sans hesitation..Cette ville a une ame et un coeur, quelque chose de magique, d'aimant mystique dont il est dur de se liberer... Une ville ou j'ai découvert le fond de moi-même, la vraie vie, faits des rencontres magique, tombée amoureuse des centaines de fois, et réaffirmer mon engagement pour le monde, la société et des communautés plus solidaires...

Il etait temps pour moi de faire mes bagages et m'en aller vers d'autres horizons, vers le sud..
Partir avec le vent chaud et humide de la méditerranée et s'établir au bord du golfe de guinée, jusqu'à nouvel ordre. Plus specialement a Accra, capitale du Ghana, ancienne colonie anglaise, ancienne "Gold Coast"... Pays que je vous ferais decouvrir au travers mes experiences, mes aventures et mes mots, photos...
Apprendre, échanger des cultures et styles de vie, aiguiser et enrichir mon expérience de développement de communautés et de vie sociale, avec des contacts et des adresses permises grâce a mon boulot des dernières années.

A l'heure ou ce message est publie, je suis assise dans l'aeroport d'Amsterdam attendant le prochain vol pour Accra... Quand vous lirez ce message, je serais surement dans une auberge de jeunesse sympa dans une banlieue d'Accra.

A tres vite avec plus d'impressions au vif, premier apercu, premieres emotions et des images...
En attendant, vous pouvez consulter la carte et situer le Ghana en Afrique de l'Ouest, sur le Golfe de Guinee, rare pays anglophone du coin, entre la Cote d'Ivoire et le Togo et le Burkina-Faso au Nord..

allez ciao...