Darkuman, Jamestown and Kaneshie Market

Finally I made it, after 6months of words, dreams, fears, doubts and preparation, I am in Ghana.
I landed in Accra on Friday evening hitted by the heat that intrude your clothes, invade your skin which starts sweating after one second outside. It's 30 degree celsius and it's 8pm.
I will try to resume my three first days in Accra, three days of slow discovery. The hostel where I am staying is pretty cosy, relaxed and warm so it's a nice start to feel yourself at home in here. Easy to stay there all day, and letting yourself fall into the comfort. Once you pass the gate, it's like you're in a transit world. Many foreigners are staying there, tourist, volunteers in various organisations... The sounds and smells from the street don't pass the gate, even the heat is stopped by the breeze going through the compound.. There is a nice seating area where you can stay there for hours without even sweating.. So thinking of going out in the unknown, in the heat, in the loud, messy and smelly street was kind of a scary feeling first..
But I made it.. First day, I only went to the main road near the hostel, looking for 20min for an old woman who sells fruits on one of the corner. That was part of my dream arriving in Accra : having a fruit salad on my first morning. Mangos, bananas, oranges... Souvenir of the Comores and Peru. Unfortunately, I only found her the next day. But managed to buy enough ingredients to make my first jollof rice which I made enough for my first 2days, until I got to the main market around here. The women here were really surprised and were laughing at me for trying to make local dishes. They didnt believe I would be able to make it. After this first try outside and the long preparation for the rice, I decided to take it easy and not go further on that day.
But the district around the hostel is nice, the street full of cars beeping, drivers shouting, hundreds of little shops along the way, selling all sorts of things, a mix of colours, of smells, a mix, a mess, disorganised, crazy, spontaneous but organised in their own ways, can't wait to go further into it..

Second day, I had to go further and deeper into Accra. Despite the offer and the possibility of going with others, I wanted to go on my own, find my way alone, take my time and see.. Jamestown was my target. Described in the guide as one of the oldest part of Accra, situated by the sea with a lighthouse and a fish market.
It was sunday and took off at around 10.30am. Ghana is a very christian country. Most shops, businesses are named after god, "God's gift motors", "God bless motors"... So at 10.30am on a Sunday, most people in the street are well dressed, on their way to church. Beautiful dresses full of colours for both men and women. Got in the tro-tro, the cheapest way of travelling in cities here, mini buses that transport you anywhere for only 50cent of a cedi (ghanaian currency). After one tro-tro, one taxi and 1/2h of walk, a few meetings on the road, I finally arrived at the lighthouse of Jamestown, where I found this little organisation run by a couple from the area, that helps street kids to go to school. Through resources made with the bit of beach they cleaned, a bar and couples of drumming and dancing lessons, added by some funds donated by few people met by chance, they can feed, host and clothes almost 50kids. Spent a few hours there, discussed with the organiser, learnt a few drumming rythms, went on a motorcycle ride through Jamestown streets...Nice experience for a first day outside the near neighbourhood. It's a start and it's encouraging for more tries. And it's also saying about the opportunity of meeting other various organisations around the city.

After eating Jollof rice for all meals during 2days, it was time to go to the market and get some other ingredients to make more and delicious dishes. I am sticking to my principle of only buying local and eat local and more important cook myself. It's easier, cheaper, more exciting and more delicious.. And i just  love to see the face of the women when I am frying plantains or manipulating the hot peppers.. So the third day, I went to Kaneshie Market with the niece of the hostel's owner, Eunice, who guided me through the different sellers, the different tiny lanes, between the hundreds of okra stands, the dozens of smoked fish, peppers, tomatoes, onions... mainly women who are asking my name, giving me another ghanaian name depending on the day I was born (Adjoua, Efia...), laughing again at me buying huge snails, crabs and others.. After one hour going through the market, 2big bags of food, I am ready for the week: okra, vegetable leaves, snails, crab, cow leg, chicken, spices, tomatoes, onions, melon seeds (egusi).. back to the house where Eunice will advise me on how to cook all those.. Result: okra soup with snails, crabs and meat which can be eaten with fufu, banku or boiled yam.. and egusi vegetable soup with meat which I am going to eat with rice.. hopefully it will last me until wednesday..

For the next few days, dont have to worry about food and meals, can finally concentrate on my research for organisations.. Tomorrow is another day..

Ciao